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Steve f
Reply with quote  #76 
Gary,
I own a Rythmik too. I didn't mount the plate amp in the woofer box, and I made up a slightly longer wiring harness ( about 6' ) for it. I suppose you could ask Brian what the limits are for the servo correction wiring. I just tried it and it seems okay. Never had a reason to question that... Until now.

Steve
Gary Kemp
Reply with quote  #77 
That is, it's to right of the rightmost main speaker, right of which are the electronics/
jjrenman
Reply with quote  #78 

I agree that it has nothing to do with gain (as I have already stated in my previous post).

I have a GG (scratch built) and recently went through some growing pains when adding a powered subwoofer.

After the first day I rearranged my system so I could go back to a shorter IC. My main speaker sound had gone dark and mushy on me with a 10' cable to my main amp. At the time I blamed the cables as they are not very low capacitance. BTW, Bass was not right with either lengths of IC's.

After further sleuthing I thought that the fairly low input impedance of the subwoofer amp might be causing some issues.

I added into the system an active crossover which has a very high input impedance, thus avoiding the low impedance of the subs internal crossover. In my system the bass tightened up, especially the lowest octave. I was able to go back to a 10' cable to my active crossover with a 5' to my main amp with no noticeable degradation to either subwoofer or main speakers.

Of course YMMV.

alan cohen
Reply with quote  #79 
Quote:
Alan, you can take a cheap set of ICs and cut the end off a couple inches from RCA. Start with a 5k to be safe..... hook the resistor to the lead going to the center pin. Attach some speaker wire to resistor and the lead going to the shield. This end hooks to the power amp. RCA goes into the XLS.


To be clear: Am I hooking up this resistor across the RCA center and shield or in series with the center? 

Also, I'm paralleling the resistor end of this IC with the output of the SOB (300Bs)? In effect having 2 sets of speaker wires connected to the output terminals, one set going to my mains and the other to the Crown? I guess I can use banana plugs in the end and bare wire screwed in.

The mains are pretty sweet, but at their best, Altec A5s don't go down too low. Mid bass is 2nd to none, but trying to load them to get 30Hz ruins that sound. They're happiest around 50-55Hz. I'm not looking to shake the rafters, but when a nice low pipe organ passage rolls by, I want to hear it like I was there. 

4 subs might be in the cards, paralleling 2 channels. Running speaker wire is an issue for me. No wall to wall, no attic and no basement. But no wife either!
henry
Reply with quote  #80 
Hey Alan, resistor in series. 

FFRS flat to 25Hz... wow, better than I thought.  

I have two bucket subs and I'm working on two more!  They really are great subs and having a "field" of Mark 4:20s should take me higher.  Can't wait to see how this evolves.

P.S. - For me, the attraction using speaker-level outputs for subwoofers was how seamlessly and coherently the sub became integrated into the system.  I guess there's something to using the same amplified signal for the mains and sub(s).
Alan Cohen
Reply with quote  #81 
I'm trying to get these subwoofers done, but they're stuck in the paint dept. I can't get anything to stick to this plastic. I tried Valspar for plastic, Krylon Fusion for plastic, Krylon Fusion over adhesion promoter and nothing sticks. And yes, I even scuffed the entire surface first. It just scrapes off with the lightest rub of a fingernail. I ruined one set of buckets and now I have a fresh pair in lovely Walmart blue. It's not a terrible color if it just didn't have the lettering. 

I manage an autobody shop and asked my painter for hints. Her best reply was buy them in the color you want.  

Thoughts? 
Alan Cohen
Reply with quote  #82 
The good news is that Walmart paint doesn't even stick.


Alan Cohen
Reply with quote  #83 
So...my concrete is hardening. tick-tock...

I deviated from the plan and used argon vapor infused, cryogenically treated and oxygenated fast-set concrete, cuz I read in an article that you can really hear the difference. 
ed schilling
Reply with quote  #84 
Alan, well color me pink! I did not check mine for adhesion! I painted it and never bothered to check it for durability! Mine will scratch too!!!!!!!!!!!

Which is crazy because my Gas Gas fender became part of the paint! Not a speck has come off and I tried to scratch it....no luck.

I'm dumbfounded, I've not seen anything Fusion did not stick to......until now! Damn.
Ed
ps........I hope you used cryo treated anchor screws.
alan cohen
Reply with quote  #85 
Quote:
ps........I hope you used cryo treated anchor screws.


Is there any other kind?

At first I thought that the buckets might have some kind of release agent on them to help remove them from the dies, but the first two I tried were food grade and I would think any residue should have been removed. 

I'm going to bring one to work and let my painter try her magic.
Steve f
Reply with quote  #86 
Alan,
Unless your painter has a magic wand, I doubt that it's possible to apply paint, and get it to stick and stay. Consider the magic of appliqué. Doesn't 3M make a heat shrinkable material that can be painted? I seem to remember that some custom car guys used it on street rods a couple of years ago.

Maybe Fermilab can run the paint through the particle accelerator. Or better yet find out why the paint won't stick. You could make a lot of money selling a coating that couldn't be tagged by gangs. Of course you would still have to develop a means to get the coating to stick to buildings.

I'd just buy buckets without logos, except for orange of course. Mine has faux maple cover.

Steve
Alan Cohen
Reply with quote  #87 
I saw this website where this woman paints them and uses them for flower pots. Obviously she doesn't touch them after she paints them

http://californiapixie.com/2012/04/24/spray-paint-does-it-again-5-gallon-buckets-get-the-makeover-of-their-dreams/


On a more serious note, is there a secret to get these Crown amps to work? I have everything hooked up, but no output. I set the Amp mode to Stereo, Crossover to LowPass and freq to 56Hz. I have the input connected through RCAs and Y'd at the GG out with 2 3' cables. I get no gain or gain lights as I turn up the dials. Just one green light at the bottom of the scale. Even if I unplug the main amp, leaving only the sub connected I get nothing. 
Bruce Rozenblit
Reply with quote  #88 
I thought you were going to use the high level inputs.  The GG wont like that 10K load even with the short cables.  Try the high level and see what happens.  
alan cohen
Reply with quote  #89 
The mains sound fine.

The level lights on the Crown flicker in response to input so I know it's hearing the signal. I even hooked up the Crown by itself without the SOB and still no output. I can't imagine using high level will do anything at this point. 
Alan Cohen
Reply with quote  #90 
I just disconnected the GG out Y completely and plugged the GG directly into to Crown. Nothing on Lowpass, but when I switched to XO bypass mode sound did trickle out of the bucket subs, but not 300W...not even .3W. 
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