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Robbert
Reply with quote  #16 
Hi Erik:

Yes I build the TP1. Lots of work.

First let me first tell a little about my stem. I listen already for long time in MONO. For stereo I use a stax headset.

The TP1 sounded really force full when needed, when the whole orchestra was going in cresendo I could still hear the triangle and picollo as individual instruments. It also did great on rock. yes it does not go super deep, so flamenco shoes stamping will not be heard as thruth-ful, for that I have now my Tannoy DIY GRF. 
The TP1 sounds really life like, not audiophile. Music heard through these make you stamp your foot on the rithem. One of these days I would like to build one again.

The exotic, it sounds great in a closed box, taking away the disadvantage of horn loading. I can hear details I can only hear whit my stax set.
Whole orchestra sounds great and life like. Details are heard great without any fatiging, Jazz / acoustic instruments sound out of this world, most likely because the harmonics are more in phase with each other.
I am rebuilding it now in a 80 gauge 12" drain tube which is strong material can easy be dampened with car dampening material and has no parallel walls.

Even with correction network I found listening of angle to them was better.

Putting things for me together. I see speakers as an instrument. Not one can do all. So for Heavy low end music the tannoy comes into play, for lighter music I will use the exotic. Can the exotic not play Stravinsky? O yes it will and with all details the composer intended, it sounds just a tiny bit more convincing on my Tannoy.

Another important thing though, the Tannoy is not easy to place. the exotic easy to place for best sound. Also the foot print is small.

If I really really had to choose, I most likely would choose the exotic. 80% of the music is in the mids, and o boy it does it so well. Super low is not there. Perhaps the subwoofer on the loudspeaker page from Bruce would be good here.

When I switch back from exotic to Tannoy the first impression is this sounds boxed :-)

For your info I am diving these speakers all with a home brew 300B from Bruce his book, modified though.

Happy building.

Cheers

Robbert



SAWOLF
Reply with quote  #17 
Hi Robbert;

  I've read your posts concerning the use of PVC for an enclosure and have, since the mid '80's, been using Schedule 40 pipe for waveguide enclosures,coupled with small woofers. In the case of what is shown in the photo, 6", Morel MW 164's.  The bass in the 12 foot long lines is extremely deep,with no internal reflections to color the sound, very clean, and surprisingly holographic. I used to demo them with a CD of the music from the film,"The Emerald Forest", and place a glass of water on top of one of the lower lines. While the walls of the listening room could be felt to sympathetically vibrate, when touched, the water in the glass was unperturbed. Illustrating that an enclosure capable of extremely deep bass didn't have to vibrate itself to produce such bass. The speakers were built 19 years ago, and the Schedule 40 cost me 400 bucks at the ,"Yard", discount from the Supplier. So I cannot imagine what Schedule 80 costs now. But if you experiment with using longer lengths of pipe along with some stuffing, I used Acousta Stuff, you won't be disappointed. The Xover is a 1st order at 200Hz. The Planar Magnetics,dipole loaded, Speaker Lab's RD-57.

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Robbert
Reply with quote  #18 
Hi Sawolf.

Your speaker project looks really interesting. yes I use acaustica stuff and sheep wool. I am planning using strait pipe. Make an opening on the side top. Embed a birch piece of wood to house the speaker. Make wooden end caps. (reduce cost.)

Will show a picture when done.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Robbert
SAWOLF
Reply with quote  #19 
Sounds good Robbert. Keeping Us up to date on your project, and We all learn. Cheers.
Erik
Reply with quote  #20 
Robbert,

Thank you for taking the time to wrote that excellent report.  Indeed, the material you are using for purely circular cross-section speakers is something I've read about -- as well as PVC.  Best of luck with that.

The SEAS driver, as you mentioned, is apparently best suited to sealed cabinets; Madisound in Wisconsin, I believe at one time offered a sealed cabinet for that driver.  SEAS also mentions good result can be obtained with horn enclosures, though the driver QTS is rather different from some variants (such as Lowther) that are more specifically designed for back-loaded horns.  That said, I have found T/S do not always equate with very good performance in terms of what driver will ultimately will work best in a given enclosure.

Your review definitely focuses my interest all the more.

Thanks again,
erik
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