Reply with quote #1
The instructions say "Use the left and center terminals of the L-pad as viewed from the rear."
That begs the question is that with the terminals oriented to the top or to the bottom as viewed from the rear? To be clearer is that terminals 1 and 2, or 2 and 3? I ask as the 16 ohm L pad I have gives a different reading from 1 and 2 as it does from 2 and 3. I thought they would be identical from side to side and that it wouldn't matter as long as one side was chosen. 1 and 2 read 0-16, whereas 2 and 3 read 0-40, so I'm thinking the side chosen does matter. Probably 1 and 2 as that reads 0-16? Thanks in advance.
Reply with quote #2
I would try this.
This drawing lines up with general wiring of a volume pot (shaft up, terminals to the person, left to right 1-2-3). http://www.wikihow.com/Wire-a-Potentiometer After it's wired in the circuit the readings will be correct.
Reply with quote #3
I have that same diagram/instructions showing all three terminals engaged. Which is the same diagram the DIY speaker build on this site says to disregard and not follow, and to use only two of the terminals; "Use the left and center terminals of the L-pad as viewed from the rear." When viewed from the rear, which to me is the side without the shaft, the terminals are either on the top and are from left to right 1-2-3, or they are oriented to the bottom and are from left to right are 3-2-1. I'm going with 1 and 2.
Reply with quote #4
Ok, no variable voltage divider but variable resistor. Using different pins will only change the direction for getting more or less resistance then..left to right or right to left turn. You cannot go wrong either way.
Reply with quote #5
do share impressions after build (and type...big/small)
Reply with quote #6
This will be unintended build number two. Unintended as these cabinets were supposed to be for a 3 way design but the wood was inadvertantly cut wrong, so rather than waste the wood and effort, I'm trying to make lemonade when presented with lemons. Hence a full range project for the viable alternative as these cabinets will come in at about 2.6 Cubic feet, which is suffcient for an 8" full range driver.
Build number one was with the specified TB driver, and pretty much built to specs and I could live with that set of speakers for the rest of my life if I had to. They sound pretty darn good. I prefer bigger full range drivers in larger cabinets though. This number two build will be with a Common Sense Audio 8" Ferrite "Classic" driver, which is cheaper than the TB. It seems to graph out very similarly to the TB, so I want to apply the same correction circuit to it and hope it reponds similarly. As this is a make lemonade out of lemons project I'm going with the less expensive Audio Nirvanna driver to minimize unintended expenses. What threw me was the difference in resistance from side to side this particluar set of L-pads has, and as this project is already a salvage/modification, I don't want any more screw ups. I'll let you know how it sounds when done.